The Saint Cuthbert's Way, the first Club multi-day hike of a recognised way or trail for many, many years, kicked off on August10th with eight club member’s, Jo, June, Moira, John A, Bill, Robert, David R and James, heading south by train through Edinburgh to Tweedbank, and onward by bus to Melrose in the Scottish Borders. With favourable sunny weather late afternoon was spent checking out the town, its priory, the river Tweed, the rugby stadium, and the local ice cream shop!. At pre-dinner bar drinks at Burts Hotel we were joined by a friend of James, Apithanny from The Butterfly Conservation Society whose role is to advise farmers on how to help wildlife and improve biodiversity through “green finance” schemes.

Tuesday Day 1. Melrose to Harestanes (Jedburgh) The walk starts at Melrose where the eight of us left the very comfortable Burts Hotel in the village square and headed rather steeply uphill into the Eildon Hills, prominent but only three of them. Leaving the Way thee of us went tio tat hill with the best views and four chose to to summit the highest, by 18 metres. We descended into the village of Bowden with its restored drinking water tower and passing a conservation meadow of flowers, that we’d learned about yesterday evening. Passing through Newton St Bowells we were back on the banks of the River Tweed, the twelfth longest river in Britain. A splinter group deviated to make a fling visit to the ruins of h by Dryburgh Abbey. We left the Tweed and after passing across farmland the path followed the very straight route of the former Roman Road, Dee Street leading to Harestanes, where an arranged transport took us to the Royal Hotel in nearby Jedburgh. 28 km and 700 metres of vertical ascent in hazy sunshine and 24C temperatures, a day long day of hills, woods of varying types, historical structures and small villages.

Wednesday Day 2. Harestanes (Jedburgh) to Moretbattle. With a shorter day today and more spare time we took advantage to each do our own thing in Jedburgh - visiting the abbey, a former residence of Mary Queen of Scott’s or purchasing quality lunch sandwiches. A taxi took us back to yesterday’s stopping point and put us literally back on track. The weather was warm with sunny periods and our route threaded it’s way all day around wheat laden fields, diverse woodlands, past farms and cottages, through very small villages, all on track, including another section of the Roman Road Dere St that originally stretched from York to the Firth of Forth. We found relaxing spots to stop and rehydrate with views that often included the very prominent Eildon Hills, that we tacked early yesterday. We crossed interesting suspension bridges, visited the untidy remains of Cessford Castle ending the day at the Templehall Inn in Morebattle. During dinner we vainly attempted to spot a much-noted partial a clip se. About 19km and 400m vertical ascent.

Thursday Day 3. Montbattle to Kirk Yetholm, a shorter day, initially into the small Glen of the Kale water, home to some huge trees in both height and girth, of lime, sycamore oak, ash and some exotic species all hiding away a big estate house Corbett Tower, spotted later with altitude gained (and binoculars). The weather forecast for the day was 27C but thankfully some high level broken cloud kept a lid on it and there was a breeze at our first hill, Grubitt Law at 326m offering some spectacular views of rolling agricultural hills and woodlands. A broad easy walking ridge took us to Wideopen Hill, 368m and the highest altitude on the St Cuthberts Way. A very solid dry stone wall offered a useful backrest for a seated refreshment break, whilst over the wall we could view down the Glen of Bowmont Water to Kirk Yeotholm. On the eastern horizon we could pick our route of tomorrow, over the northern snout of the Cheviot Hills. But now it was all grassy descent following the well built dyke down to a tarmac road that lead to Kirk Yetholm, and provided some ripe and sweet blackberries/brambles. We were ahead of our earliest check in time 16:00 hrs so stopped for a refreshment break sat on the banks of the Bowmont Water, whilst soaking feet in the water itself., and performing some sore feet first aid. We still arrived at Kirk Yetholm early so had very welcome drinks at the Border Hotel bordering a grassy and extensive village green. Later, having checked in at our Mill House accomodation which gave us some very spacious rooms, we returned Border Hotel for a good dinner and finally back to the B & B patio to watch the colours of sunset.11km and about ;90m vertical ascent.

Friday Da 4. Kirk Yetholm (KY) to Wooler. We had all enjoyed the comforts of Mill House B & B , though some of the “attic” rooms were a bit warm after yesterday sunshine. We were soon back on the route which was actually the last 1.5km of the Pennine Way northbound. Soon, at approx 1000 ft elevation, we reached the Scottish/English border, a fence, a gate and a sign post, nothing significant, but we made an occasion of it with both nationalities, plus Irish, present in our group of eight. The route descended passing by ancient agricultural terraces and another tree/hidden estate house (aka castle) at Hethpool. Soon after we diverted @off route descending into a gorge and waterfall for lunch and a foot soothing paddle. Early afternoon was a steady climb into an extensive area managed for grouse shooting, the heather burned and cut on an industrial scale. However the heather that was sufficiently mature was putting on a powerful purple bloom. The weather today was still pretty hot but a veil of thin cloud saved our skin. Gradually we descended, to enter a council estate on the edge of the town of Wooler where the locals advised us of good places to stay and to eat. A tough day, 24km and the approx 720m vertical ascent ranks the highest of any day, but the toil made more comfortable by a cooling breeze

Saturday Day 5 Wooler to Fenwick. After an unusual night for half of us being raised at 10.00pm to change rooms due to a booking mix up a relative easier day was anticipated. First thing was to visit the pharmacy for some foot repair product, but the pharmacy was shut due to a “family death”!! Our own supplies and expertise were called upon. The morning incline out of town seems to have become the norm but we were soon up higher and today the weather was cooler. Height gained was soon lost and we were on tarmac, stopping for a break on a memorial bench in West Horton. More tarmac took us past fields and over drainage ditches, with little break from this man-made landscape, though there was some good bird life flitting around and a World War 2 poll box need internal investigation. Without doubt the highlight was St Cuthberts Cave, purportedly one of the places that his coffin was hidden during many years of being carried around Scotland avoiding invading Danes and Vikings. The cave was impressively large and a sunny spot for lunch. Westward, on a far distant hazy skyline we could discern the shape of the Eildon Hills that we ascended five days ago. We took a minor detour off track to a craggy knoll, and we’re rewarded by 360-degree panoramic views including Holy Isle and Lindisfarne, tomorrow’s walking end to the hike. A few minor ups and downs amongst fields and woodlands brought us to Fenwick where a prearranged taxi was called to take us to our accommodation at the White Swan at Fenwick. 21 km walked and approx 420m vertical ascent

Sunday Day 6 - last full walking day - Fenwick to Holy Isle. The day started at The Wite Swan accommodation In Lowick and a taxi drive with Geordie to yesterday’s walking day end at Fenwick. We were ready to walk our last day by 10:30. But for the first time it was overcast with light rain. A short distance and we were faced with crossing, safely, the single carriageway A1, not for the faint hearted. The nest challenge was the main London/Aberdeen train line with no footbridge and trains whizzing by in both directions at 120 miles per hour. We followed procedure by using the dedicated on-site phone to speak to the local signalman who requested us to call back in 5 minutes after the next train had come through. We did and were allowed to cross. It was then a brief walk across grassland to the causeway that allows vehicular traffic across to Holy Isle ( when the tide is out). However, we were all taking the Pilgrims Walk, across the low-tide exposed sands in bare feet! The weather had improved with sunshine, so the 4 km Pilgrim’s walk was most invigorating. Arriving at the far end, Holy Isle itself, we stopped for lunch, shook the sun-dried sand of our feet, donned our boots and walked to our hotels In Lindisfarne. The St Cuthbert’s Way was complete, a pilgrimage of around 100 km and 2000metres of vertical ascent in 6 days, not a massive challenge but tough at times. Certainly, an education in the topography and history of the Borders, the band of land along the English/Scottish border that. The two countries fought over for many centuries. The walk was over, but not the walking. In splinter groups we explored Holy Islam further, the Priory, the Castle, the Church, the braces, sand dunes, bird hide, shops, and much more, finally dinner in the Manor Hotel

Monday Day 6 + 1, ie our return home day. We had some spare time after breakfast, so the group scattered around Holy Isle to visit various places devoid of mass tourist because the tidal causeway was still closed. At midday a taxi came to take us to Berwick upon Tweed and thence a train direct to Aberdeen. But over dinner last night we we had a walk “washdown” meeting which brought up opinions from all eight of us. Most prolific were the reasons that made the hiking of St Cuthberts way so enjoyable (no particular order): the whole walk, walk along sand/Pilgrims Paddle (to Holy Isle), variety of landscapes, every day different, the Eileen Hills, the Heather in vibrant purple bloom, St Cuthberts Cave, dabbling feet in small burns/streams during refreshment breaks, endless foraging of sweet ripe brambles, the weather (we. Had only two brief spells of light rain), length/duration of walk, daily baggage transfer…….. what was not so well liked was walking on metalled (tarmac) roads, temperatures of 27 C or higher, invasive non-native species, ie rhododendron, and Himalayan balsam.

Pleasingly, our scheduled Sunday walking day was the only dry day in a period of rain, so with blue sky emerging we had a pleasant drive up Deeside to the Linn of Dee. The group of 12 walkers assembled in a busy car park; busy with vehicles, people and also with midges. So without any lingering we set off along the road towards Mar Lodge.

Standing aside for a passing car, we spotted a majestic stag watching us from the woods. Roughly six years old (according to ChatGPT) with 16 points to his velvet covered antlers, he was in fine condition. Those further back in the group saw his companions among the trees. A treat early in the walk.

Just past Claybokie we turned back on ourselves up a well graded track before switching back again on a gradual ascent of the southern slopes of Creag Bhalg. Once above the trees, we had open views over Mar Lodge and across to Glen Ey and the hills beyond. Nearing the top of the slope a new aspect opened up with a view over the Linn of Dee to Braemar with its white castle catching the sun. A natural point for our morning break.

From here a small path led over several minor tops with expansive views north to Beinn a’Bhuird, Ben Avon and other high Cairngorms. At one of the cairns our conversation turned to how we might have looked as our younger selves. Jo took this to heart and in the evening enlisted ChapGPT to transform our summit photo to show us all on Creag Bhalg as 20 year olds. The results were greatly amusing and provided a dramatic demonstration of AI hallucination, not least for those having had a sex change in the intervening years.

At the final summit cairn, a surprise second break was announced (perhaps too soon for some) but justified by the views to the west which had opened up. There were no complaints over lunch as we admired the hills over a brightly coloured expanse of deer grass with Ben Macdui and Cairn Toul clearly visible.

Then our only section off path across heather and grass to meet a good track leading down through a plantation to the Glen Quioch track. Turning west our walk through Clais Fhearnaig was a delight with changing views of the multiple lochans, home to varicoloured grasses and on a path lined with wild flowers among the heather.

An impromptu break overlooking Glen Lui was triggered on reaching a descending line of stone steps that formed a perfect tiered seating arrangement for us all. Then on to familiar territory down Glen Lui with a stop at the bridge to watch some fish swimming in the clear water below.

Reaching Linn of Dee car park (17km, 520m ascent, 6h 15m) we regrouped in cars and made our way to the Bothy in Braemar to complete the day. Thanks to all for great company on the hills and to the drivers for making it possible.

The car park was already well filled with early bird hillwalkers’ vehicles when we assembled for a 10:30 start to the August Saunter. Perhaps some had set off for a weekend of camping and hillwalking taking advantage of Invercauld’s generous allowance of parking time only charging per visit. I don’t think their neighbours down the road are as liberal with their car parking time.

Leaving the car park at Keiloch we pass by the buildings that in the past housed the estate’s saw milling business as timber production and processing was once a mainstay of Invercauld’s prosperity. The Scots Pine, a tree suited to the poor ground hereabouts takes over 100 years to mature to harvesting but the slow growth produces a much sought after close grained timber. Now, while forestry is still important the processing is done elsewhere.

Stands of mature pines line the track as we settle into the walk along the Felagie road but turning off to meet the brooding mass of Craig Leek rising out of the strath of the Felagie Burn its grey crags and tumbled bouldery screes adding character to an already interesting walk our presence being scrutinised by a soaring eagle riding a thermal or updraught from the cliffs. Warm air was affecting the bird and while we stopped to admire the flawless flight the air temperature at ground level and the rising path caused some of the Saunterers to shed a layer. The view from a bend in the track necessitated a stop to take it all in as we were now well above the strath that leads down to Inver, turning round we could see Cac Carn Beag on Lochnagar and wonder how much longer the snow patches below The Stuic would remain.

The old track beneath our feet was in places completely overgrown in lush grass wheeled vehicles had long since used other routes into the estate leaving the path a haven for meadow brown butterflies that rose in flurries at our passing and flowers, the yellow of lady’s bedstraw in the verges. It was used to stuff mattresses giving a fresh smell to bedding while Vikings believed it helped manage the pain in childbirth. While the natural world was being admired and the time being what it was a murmur from the back of the walk was heard, “how about a coffee break?” We’d just turned a corner to reveal a magnificent view of Beinn a’ Bhuird so we stopped.

The path turned downhill into the pines and shortly delivered us to a ledge that at one time, before the trees were as dense as they are today would have had a view down to Invercauld House and beyond towards the Dee. Here a small hexagonal shelter has been built of wood, open to the elements, the roof thatched with heather and lined with moss. This is the Fog House; it has nothing to do with the mist that will sometimes drift past nor is it a refuge for those who are a bit foggy about the night before at least it wasn’t while we were there! The information panel at the site explains that fog is the Scots word for moss but I can’t find any reference to support this. The purpose of the hut was to provide a scenic shelter for those who walked from the Big Hoose to take in the view over the river and beyond. More recently a fine, modest cairn has been placed to commemorate the life of Alwyne Farquharson, the weel kent and popular 16th Chief of Clan Farquharson in who died in 2021.

Continuing downhill our track joined the Bealach Dearg road and we followed it north until the mature forest was left behind giving us another view of Beinn a’Bhuird and as before on this saunter, if you can see B a’B it’s time to dine so we had lunch. We had only just settled down for our sandwiches when two e-powered mountain cyclists opened the gate we’d recently passed through and disappeared over hill. Their guide, for that’s who he proved to be, stopping to close the gate was not impressed with his clients, guests at the Fife Arms even if they were “billionaires” as they’d been two hours late. He too went on his way leaving us on our quiet corniche to finish our meal and continue with the Saunter.

This was the highest point of the Saunter and the gentle descent took us down to a tangle of junctions, the best looking track being a false friend as the grassy track that seemed to wander off into the trees proved to be the way ahead; other junctions were helpfully signposted, not to where we wanted to go but to cottages in the vicinity. Coming out of the trees we pass into a huge area of grassland that spreads south west up the Dee valley as far as Mar Lodge and bordered to the south by Creag Choinnich and Braemar village. Having been confined in the forest the sense of space was a surprise; the strath being watched over by the ruin of Balnagower Cottage, in its day it must have been an impressive house with sturdy grey and pink granite masonry, finely detailed chimney stacks and window frames still in place. All it lacks is a roof.

A little way further through the meadow and closer to the Dee is the Farquharson Monument dedicated to the memory of James Farquharson 12th Laird of Invercauld, 1808-1862. This is a granite obelisk set on a plinth with a stepped base exactly like the monument to William Farquharson of Monaltrie 1753-1828, set on the grassy knoll in trees just west of Cambus o’ May that the Saunterers visited in February. Here at Invercauld the wide open space gives stupendous views all round to the hills, the freshly painted Braemar Castle, Braemar village and the River Dee and we sit at the base of the monument taking it all in. Sooner or later we have to get going again and we do, enjoying the long grass swishing as we walk, the blue of devils bit scabious nodding in the breeze.

A substantial granite bridge starts us on the old Deeside road back to Keiloch through sheepy fields and onto the high road where the Invercauld policies grass looks as if it’s been given an extra close cut to make it ready for the Highland Games season. We wended our way back to the car park where liveried Fife Arms personnel were on hand to assist the cyclists we met at lunch time. I hope they enjoyed their powered pedal round as much as we enjoyed our Saunter.

Fifteen Club members attended this meet filling the Kinlochewe Hotel much to the satisfaction of Duncan and his family who run the place with a relaxed efficiency, possibly our only disappointment was that we weren’t staying for longer.

Kinlochewe, so called because Loch Maree was originally Loch Ewe. Maree being a form of the saint’s name Maelrubha who brought Christianity to the area in 680 or thereabouts although the name change didn’t occur or wasn’t written down until sometime in the 18th century. More of this in Jeremy Fenton’s web site www.jeremyfenton.scot. Anybody with an interest in the area’s geology as Kinlochewe sits at the edge of the Moine Thrust should also go there as Jeremy’s description avoids geological jargon.

The walk to Leckie with the new track cutting through quartzite, the Durness limestone, unexpected but visible in the riverbed and the dramatic cliffs on the southeast side of the glen all made us wonder what caused this formation: a little research found that the Moine Thrust was to blame for this and much else hereabouts.

The weather for the early starters on Friday was excellent, less so with misty summits on Saturday but clear again on Sunday and Monday. No rain and gentle breezes kept the insect population at bay so it’s no surprise that members were very active.

Reported summits on Friday 19th
Meall a’Ghiubhais
Beinn a’ Mhuindh
Moruisg

Saturday 20th
Beinn Dearg
Beinn Eighe
Beinn a’ Chearcaill
Beinn Damh
Ruadh Stac Beag

Sunday 21st
Ben Shieldaig
Beinn an Eoin
Beinn na h-Eaglaise
Slioch

Monday 22nd
Ruadh Stac Beag
Mas an Aird Mhor

Walks taken included Loch Maree side, to Cromasaig in Glen Torridon and to Leckie above Heights of Kinlochewe.

All in all, a super weekend that will live long in the memory.

I had put this walk off for two years now, waiting for that ideal day of beautiful weather combined with low water levels in the burns, and its time finally arrived. With much trepidation (this is what happens if you don’t do reccies) we set off under skies that had miraculously changed as we travelled up the valley, from mist and cloud to unsullied sunshine.

The views, which most of the ten of us had never seen, were unparalleled, stretching south to Beinn a Ghlo, and north to the whole of the Cairngorms spread before us. The Geldie burn has surely never flowed so quietly, bogs had dried under our feet, midges were miraculously gone, everyone managed the steep offpath paths with great aplomb, and really – none of us wanted to leave. We could have stayed forever on Geal Charn’s white quartzy summit. A fantastic day out, long to be remembered. And my thanks, as always, to drivers Andy, Geoff and Jeb.

Mid-summer, and a walk to do justice to the guaranteed long daylight hours and the climatologically predicted sunshine and warm temperatures – a 32km circuit from Linn of Dee incorporating the Munros of Beinn Mheadhoin (the middle hill) and Derry Cairngorm plus, the beautiful Loch Etchachan, it doesn’t get much better than that!! BUT only one club member, the walk coordinator himself, was sold on this spectacular promotion of the walk, with two opting for the slightly less challenging combined bike (10km) and walk (22km) option. Diplomacy ruled, and the three joined company in the bike option.

Thus departing the unusually midgeless Linn of Dee car park, the three peddled speedily (30 minutes) to the equally midgeless Derry Lodge which was also surprisingly devoid of campers/hikers. A good walking pace took us through the glorious open pinewoods of lower Glen Derry, where mature pines of over 100 years looked down upon often crowded, but healthy regenerating pines all of less than 12 years old, the time scale from when NTS Mar Lodge created the area as a Der Management Zone and significantly reduced deer numbers. What will it look like in 50, 80, 100 years, what additional wildlife will it shelter? – we could only imagine.

Further up Glen Derry the trees disappeared apart from the remnants of small pine plantations from which the ugly fences had long been removed. Ahead we could see one of the tors on Beinn Mheodhain, our target hill and encouragingly well below the cloud base. The weather forecasts for the hill had now all been proven inaccurate, to our benefit. The path ahead continued to make its gradual ascent over the Lairig an Laoigh into Glen Avon but we took the well trodden fork left, over the footbridge, now with some steepness. We were passed at some speed by two lady runners. We caught up with them when at the Hutchison Memorial Hut, named after a prominent Aberdeen outdoor enthusiast and originally built in 1954 as nothing more than a rudimentary emergency shelter, but completely rebuilt in 2012 to be a sound and solid building. The ladies were running our route, two Munros, and soon took off again at an impressive rate. We stayed for a rest and spoke to a youngish couple from Colorado who had put in a few mountain miles over the last few days, but one of them seemed to be confined through back pain, to lying horizontal on the floor. In our conversation with them we never enquired on how they were going to progress from the hut.

Following in the footsteps of the running ladies we toiled up the steep path till eventually it levelled off and ahead lay the glorious Loch Etchachan, at 927m altitude (just over 3,000 feet), the highest named lock of comparable size in Scotland, indeed the UK. From this restful spot the path to Beinn Mheadhain, a well-engineered affair, climbed steeply upward with multiple stretches of steps, keeping walkers son a single route rather than tramping off in all directions as in the past, and eroding the hillside. But the thought arose that the path engineers could have devised a less steep, but longer route! Despite the skies being overcast, the cloud base remained well above our heads and glances back down to Loch Etchachan were very rewarding, and a good excuse for a brief rest. We met the running ladies again, though they were on their downhill returning leg, and just kept going, focussed perhaps on not slipping on the the typical Cairngorm granite chips (aka ball-bearings). Eventually, for us, the tors of Beinn Mheodhain’s first unnamed, 1163m summit came into view and it was a relaxing walk across typical Cairngorm high altitude heath to reach it. It offered some fine views in all directions, but to our west it didn’t need a meteorologist to suss that some worsening weather was about to engulf us, and so it did. Waterproof jackets and trousers quickly came out, the views all disappeared as thin cloud and light rain enveloped us, but the real summit of grander tors of 1182m, just 800m away, remained visible. Two of us did a quick there and back, with the true Munro-bagger scrambling up the tor to the very, very highest point.

Returning, with an increased wet, westerly wind now in our face we re-joined out colleague and headed back down to Loch Etchachan with some speed. Now, less than an hour after our ascent, there were no views to admire, just a desire to lose altitude and hope for lighter winds. The hope was realised and though the light rain continued a nice perch was found at 930m altitude for a full lunch refreshment break with views across Loch Etchachan to the cloud capped peaks behind.

One Munro conquered, one more, Derry Cairngorm, to go, requiring 250m of ascent, but from past knowledge, nothing too steep. Our fist navigational challenge was to find the junction left turn off the Ben Macdui path, but we failed to find it, though did get back on route without any distance or altitude wasted. The light rain continued, with temperatures probably around 11C, but Derry Cairngorm from this approach has some false tops and some cruel, wet, bouldery sections to hop and skip through. Finally Munro number 2, 1155m and bearable enough to stop for a bight to eat in the shelter of the cairn.

After the break, heading down from the cloud and rocky summit, compass directions were needed several times to ensure we were going in the direction of the path, that often was not easy to discern. The route back is via the flanks of a minor hill, Carn Crom, at a mere 890m with no real reason to ascend (in the thin cloud), and when a fork in the path offered us a high level and low level route we naturally, at this late stage of the day, took the low level alternative. Mistake- though well trodden, it came to a steep section of solid, but wet, sloping granite that needed to be traversed, with any slip being more than painful. All options discussed (including going back to the high level alternative), and a route across agreed (probably no more than 8 steps) we crossed with little trouble. Now it was an easy walk down on a well maintained path, descending into the upper limit of scattered pine regeneration at approximately 650m altitude, and once out of the thin cloud (but still with light rain), views began to open up including the series of oxbow lakes and former channels of Derry burrn, that we had passed at low altitude early morning and never noticed. Finally after 22km of walking we returned to the bikes, hopped on, and enjoyed the speedy 5km ride down the vehicle track back to the cars. Walked 22km and 1140metres ascent plus 10km cycled, a good midsummer days hike.

This walk tackled Derry Cairngorm (Munro, 1155m) using the same route there and back, starting at Linn of Dee NTS Car Park (NO 064898).

Our group of 10 was made up of 5 (plus 1 dog) walking from Linn of Dee and 5 using bikes as far as Derry Lodge where everyone re-grouped before setting off up the hill around 10:30am.

The weather started dry and cloudy but rain and low cloud set in later with a fresh westerly wind in exposed sections. Temperatures were around 15C at Derry Lodge and 9C at the summit. It’s worth noting that the Met Office forecast showed rain and hill fog for much of the day whereas the Mountain Weather (MWIS) forecast showed dry, clearer conditions in the morning with rain later. Interestingly, we were not bothered by midges at Linn of Dee or Derry Lodge, unlike on previous occasions at this time of year!

Our group set off crossing the bridge over the Derry Burn and headed NW at a steady pace up a well-prepared path through woodland, passing the crags at Creag Bad an t-Seabhaig before emerging into the open moorland of Coire Craobh an Oir. We continued NNW and took the left-hand fork in the path to avoid walking close to the steep crags of Coire na Saobhaidh overlooking Glen Derry to the east. We stopped for a refreshment break in a sheltered spot below Carn Crom (890m) with great views of Beinn Bhreac, Beinn a ‘ Bhuird and Lochnagar and were passed by another walking group heading up the same path at a brisk pace!

After our break, we continued over rugged ground below Carn Crom, descending to a boggy col to the west of Coire na Cloiche. We climbed to the east of the 1040m top where the path became less clear and had to make our way across the large boulders surrounding Derry Cairngorm. Rain was now setting in and the cloud was descending so we stopped to don our waterproof gear before the final ascent.

We reached the 2 summit cairns of Derry Cairngorm at around 1:15pm where we met the other group who passed us earlier. They were with a hillwalking club from Edinburgh and set off back down the path at a fair pace as they had a deadline to meet their coach at Linn of Dee!

We didn’t stay long at the summit either and set off on our descent using the same route, going carefully over the boulders and picking out the faint path in the deteriorating visibility. We stopped for another refreshment break in a sheltered spot below the 1040m top then continued with the rain easing and visibility improving, returning to Derry Lodge around 3:45pm. The cyclists collected their bikes and the others continued on foot with everyone back at the Linn of Dee car park by 5pm.

A great day in the hills, covering 20.5km in approx. 8hrs with of 780m total ascent and better weather than expected!

Leaving Aberdeen on a grey day with a forecast of rain later on was not an encouraging start to our Saunter; Alford was even quieter than usual with no dog walkers on the go or folk strolling back from the newsagent with the Sunday papers under their arm. Not much doing until we rolled into the car park in Glen Nochty. Here the place was swarming, not with the four other Saunterers or anybody else, it was the birds, birds everywhere, some sort of partridge, black males and brown patterned females the like of which I’d never seen before. We were all in the dark about what sort of black game bird we were looking at as we’d all seen red legged partridges in various places before but this wasn’t it. Later on we’d have another inconclusive discussion about bird identification.

Beating our way along the track and leaving the birds behind we cross the Bridge of Auchternach over the Water of Nochty. The bridge was built in 1832 by Gen Nathaniel Forbes the owner of Auchternach House and estate. He may also have been responsible for having the road that runs up the west side of the glen constructed to connect the estate with main Donside road. The road is still in good condition being used for forestry operations and we pass a recently clear-felled area before turning away from the road and onto the hillside. Here the track must be used very infrequently used as it is just a shallow line in the grass leading up to the skyline were it shows itself as slight notch on the horizon.

Our eyes, however are diverted to the profusion of flowers growing in or near the track, the yellow of lady’s bedstraw, bird’s foot trefoil; the pink of ragged robin, mountain thyme and the sparkling white of eyebright and others were all around us as we made our steepish way over the shoulder of Breagach Hill. Once we were past the worst of it we had a coffee stop where the track passed through a thicket of juniper and time was taken to enjoy the view down to Bellabeg and Strathdon.

From here the track, now much improved through heathery ground carries us down and over to Green Hill where broken rocky ground showed the underlying serpentine the hill is known for. Here the enriched soil shows itself in healthy grassland and we go off path to investigate the nearest Craig of Moniewhitt, a group of stumpy serpentine torrs. Shortly afterwards the path splits and we go left until the ground steepens to reveal our lunch destination, a circular fishing/shooting bothy on the shore of a dam enlarged lochan complete with pier and beached boat. Also provided for the passing hillwalker are benches to rest, relax and to enjoy the view of the water where gulls and families of ducks had made their home. There was some debate about the species of duck, perhaps it was a diver of some sort as it was just too far out to make a clear identification. What could be seen was a black, maybe dark brown female because drakes have nothing to do with looking after the brood. On the lochan there were at least eight chicks paddling and diving next to mum. Subsequent research proved them to be tufted ducks.

Sustained by our leisurely lunch we began the homeward leg of the saunter but first stopped to look over another shelter building a short distance away from our lunch spot. This corrugated iron roofed wooden structure was equipped with tables and benches now stacked away from the long open side, the inside of the walls showed the remains of heather that had been used to seal draughts. Here, the staff who supported the shooters and fishers would have taken their, probably simpler fare during breaks from their activities on the hillside.

The Saunter before lunch had been over the hill with excellent views to Morven and west to Ben Avon but after lunch the route was down in the glen and as we progressed the sides of the valley closed in on us apart from a steep sided opening revealing an old quarry cut into the hillside to reveal a very diverse variation in the rocky strata. A section was more or less horizontal, some of it slabby, some broken; adjacent were ribs of rock that were vertical, the softer eroded material, some as black as coal showing where water had flowed. Next to the eroded ribs was a yellow friable rock before the vegetation reclaimed the ground. A lot to see in a small area. Back in the main glen a tumbled pile of blocks built into a bank just above the stream revealed itself as a lime kiln, the surrounding area bright green thanks to years of dusting from the kiln. The good track we were walking would have been user to cart the lime down to the farm we were soon to pass through.

The steep sided valley has all the signs of being a melt water channel formed at the end of the Ice Age when huge torrents of water from melting glaciers forced their way downhill through faults in the land or other weaker areas of hillside sweeping all before them transforming the landscape to much like what we have today. As the land opens out into the strath that is the farm at Tolduquhill the upper area is a thicket of trees before the lush grass, well watered by the rain that was just starting and kept fertile by the lime rich debris washed down and dumped hereabouts in the distant past.

The track we’ve been following has taken us above the floor of the valley giving a good view of how the land has been worked over the years, piles of stones showing where the fields were cleared for crops now populated by sheep. As we pass into the fields the track peters out but the way is obvious down to a ford surrounded by a very vigorous stand of bright yellow mimulus that is all the way up and down the banks of the stream we follow. Just lovely, one of my favourite flowers. We pass through the farmyard with its kennelled dogs and handsome strutting cockerel; cars parked but no other signs of life and it’s back to the Water of Nochty and the black partridges and their well stocked feeders. Its no surprise with all that grub to eat they don’t fly much and I do wonder how the shooters can have much sport with birds conditioned to remain in this well wooded area. By now the rain was heavy enough to discourage a prolonged review of a very interesting day and Jo had 150 photographs to review so it was back home tout de suite.

Cloud. Having promised exceptional and unusual views, I was left explaining how exciting it is to walk without seeing. It wasn’t all bad – the steep climb out of Caenlochan Glen on those fantastic zigzags did give some fine views down Glen Isla, but then the world closed down to white.

There are benefits to this quiet quiet world – a route you’ve walked many times suddenly becomes unrecognisable, and the opportunity to practise old-fashioned navigation is unparalleled when you can’t see where you’re going – a 5m hump takes on the proportions of the Matterhorn.

I regret to admit that some of us were not up for Cairn of Claise in the cloud nor Glas Maol in the cloud (congratulations to James, Sandra, Jeb, Vicki & Ozzie, who were), the other 4 had extra breaks instead, but all of us enjoyed the many birds we heard and saw, and the variety of wild flowers was also exceptional. Also horses, goats, brown hare and one deer high on Druim Mor. A big thank you to drivers Geoff and Jeb - a long drive and a long walk!

17 club members gathered at Glenmore on 13th June. This year we stayed 3 nights and again enjoyed excellent meals, comfortable rooms and a sociable bar. As ever the staff were incredibly helpful and keen to enable everyone to enjoy the hills. Some of us arrived at Glenmore early on Saturday to eat lunch (inside with a view while we waited for the rain to stop) before setting off on the circuit of Meall a Bhuchaille. Others took advantage of sunshine en route and climbed Sgor Gaoithe in the Cromdales.

When we gathered at dinner options for the next day were debated at length and forecasts scrutinised. Decisions were however postponed till morning. On Sunday a group went via Lurchers Crag to the northern corries and Cairngorm, fortunately getting some great views as the mist cleared on top. Others went up Sgor Gaoith from Feshiebridge but still had fog at the summit despite a plan to arrive later once it lifted. A group stayed lower on the ridge from Badaguish to Meall an Buchaille and another pair who climbed Geall Charn Mhor had excellent views.

Monday saw ascents in better weather of Mullach a Clach Blair from Feshiebridge and two separate ‘groups’ reaching the shelter stone using the goat track which reportedly still had some snow around. Some enjoyed planned scrambling. Another group successfully climbed Bynack Mor and there was a further ascent of the northern corries and Cairngorm from the car park. Meantime there was great enjoyment of the hills from lower down and some tricky (so we were told!) drone flights by our expert. We were impressed on our last night to see the drone in action looking very like a live creature as was the lawnmower which Glenmore now use.

After lots of talk about beavers but no sightings some of us managed a last day’s walk up towards Utsis hut and saw lots of evidence of beavers on the way. The hut had some fascinating history about the setting up of the Cairngorm reindeer herd by Utsi and his wife. The herd is very much still there but not visible on the walk.

We were all sorry to leave after a very enjoyable weekend. As the notice above the serving hatch at Glenmore says ‘To aim for the highest point is not the only way to climb a mountain’ , Nan Shepherd, the Living Mountain. When sharing photos and thoughts one of us said that mountains are always there for us all, whether we can climb the high hills or now need to choose different paths.

Walks and summits
Meall a Bhuchaille
Craiggowrie ridge Creagan Gorm and Meall a Bhuchaille
Geal Charn Mhor from Lynwilg
Sgor Gaoith from Feshie
Creag a Chalamain Lurchers Crag northern corries, Cairngorm
Bynack Mor
Ben Macdui
Shelter stone via goat track
Carn Etchachan Shelter Stone Crag
Mullach Clach a Bhlair
Northern corries and Cairngorm from car park
Utsis hut forest walk

And other things- woodpecker ptarmigan and snow bunting And beautiful alpine flowers.

As we got closer to the day, the forecast for Glenshee looked worse and worse. It was positively biblical in the afternoon, albeit iffy. If you were Noah having just driven and sanded the last nail, you would have been pleased. If you were Noah and you still had a hundred nails to go, you would have been distraught at the thought of all that work carried away in the waters of Shee. We took a unanimous decision to go for something local, get an early start and be back off the hill before the deluge arrived. We chose Clachnaben, returning via Charr bothy. Sitting at the top of Clachnaben in the howling wind, watching the cloud level drop alarmingly on Mount Battock, we took another decision, abandoned Charr bothy and went back down the tourist route. This display of cowardice got us back to the car dry, although the portents of arriving rain continued to mount up.

In short, we chickened out and are glad that we did!

The Sunday June Short Walk was a return to Criag Mellon, at the head of Glen Cova with eight club members participating. Starting at the Glen Doll Ranger Centre, apparently now closed due to a withdrawal of funding from several partners, it was a quick start up the track that is the infamous Jock’s Raod. Immediately ahead of us were the steep slopes of of Craig Mellon itself, enveloped in cloud, much as expected from a weather forecast of showers and moderate, but just acceptable summit winds, the latter confirmed by the speed of the clouds moving over Craig Mellon. Below, left of our easy track, lay the burn given as White Water on the OS map, yet the glen is always referred to as Glen Doll.

The planted forest had suffered some of the worst damage from Storm Frank at the end of 2015 but this eastern end of Jock’s Road had long been cleared. However ahead, the true Jocks Road footpath on the north side of the glen was still barricaded off with ugly building site security fences and numerous warning signs, and the only practical option was to follow the track across the bridge to the south side of the glen. This diversion crossed the Fee burn and footpath that turned southwest upto the magical Corrie Fee, but we stayed low and worked out way through a few more showers.

This diversion eventually crossed back over another solid bridge to the proper Jocks Road path at the western edge of the planted forest. Herer was a good spot for a refreshment with the forest providing some shelter from the continuing light showers. There were no more planted forests beyond here as the mountain path took on some gradient as it worked its way up the glen. There was an abundance of would flowers presumably brought on by the recent weather mix of sun and showers, the usual favourites but with mountain everlasting and a few orchids perhaps being the most exciting. Across the glen were the impressive crags marked on the map as Craig Rennet 746m, linking through The Dounalt to Craig Maud at 814m, all just covered in a blanket of cloud but cradling a small, refreshingly green natural woodland of, at a guess, Rowan, enjoying the protection of scree from nibbling deer. How different from the dark, un-natural, storm devasted commercial plantations at the start of the walk.

A long group discussion was made as we approached Davie Glens Bourach, and emergency shelter originally built in 1966 after the death of five persons attempting to walk from Braemar to Clova in adverse weather, and refurbished over the years most recently in 2001.

With the weather still slightly inclement and not expected to improve radically, and with an off-path, slippery heather ascent immediately facing us, easier options were considered (dry lunch in the bourach and just return to the cars), but together we decided to go for gold. The slippery heather was conquered, lunch was taken in a sheltered hollow and soon the slightly craggy face of Cairn Damff at 839m was visible ahead, with a diagonal ramp identified as taking us through the screes and crags to the summit which most of the time was covered in cloud. Conditions on the summit were not conducive to lingering and visibility necessitated route finding by map and compass across the plateau to Craig Mellon at the eastern end of the plateau. Now and then the cloud just lifted above our heads to give us some physical ground-based navigational reference points and views across the glen ot clud rolling of the highest summits of Driesh and Mayar.

The vies from Craig Mellon were not visible, so we set off on a further navigational challenge, to drop down slightly and find the top end of the stalkers path coming up from the Ranger’s centre. Now below the cloud murky views opened up but the focus was finding the path, with use of the 1:25,000 being particularly valuable in achieving success.

Once on the beautifully constructed stalkers path navigation was easy and we soon reached the commercial forest where we took the opportunity of shelter for another refreshment break. The final descent of forest took us through the desolation of the blackened, eleven year old windfall fo Storm Frank, dominating the small patches of fresh green spring growth. The 1980-ish (we counted tree rings) planting of non-native trees for ultimately commercial gain, is now littered with tangled windfall deadwood and brash will take decades to recover.

Back at the car, each of us a little damp but not soaking, it was too late to drop in at the Clova Hotel, and we all headed directly back up the road to a hot shower at home.

Diversions, ducks and kilts made it an interesting day before we even got started on the Saunter. Subsidence had closed the road in Banchory, the Annual Kilt Walk was assembling there as well and Ballater was getting ready for a Farmers’ Market, Antiques’ Fair and the famous Ballater Duck Race but for us at least, the main attraction was our Saunter around the Craig of Prony and the prospect of a good day out in the breezy sunshine.

Leaving the Station Square and skirting the Ballater Games park the path is overshadowed by Craigendarroch providing shelter for the well maintained path with a broad outlook over the fields east of the town. This was an easy going start for the 19 Saunters including 2 guests but we were soon having to keep out of the way of the traffic as a short stretch of the pass of Ballater road had to be negotiated before we took to the hills.

The track rises steeply right from the roadside with only one significant break in the forest to allow a view over the River Dee so it was slow and steady for most until as the path levelled off close to the telecoms mast that the track serviced. Graham Marr pointed out that there was a lime kiln hereabouts and I wondered how far the workers had to carry the limestone to the kiln as the surrounding terrain is predominately granite.

Here the path to Craig of Prony branched off but not before a very welcome stop for coffee and sustenance. Also stopping by the way were a pair of cyclists. Now, I’d met and had chatted to them as they got ready to go in the car park and they were all set to do a run on Pannanich Hill so I was surprised when they joined us en route to Prony. We’d stopped and they were stationary and we spoke about our plans for the day, they were going off to Culblean as a change from what they intended. As they pedalled off and we got going again I didn’t know that our plans would change as well.

The track, now mostly level continues through the sparse self seeded Scots Pine with the occasional rogue Sitka Spruce, its fresh growth conspicuously green and prickly. As we moved out of the welcome shelter of these trees the wind already strong became fully apparent to us and hats began to be worn, jackets to be zipped up and conversation became more difficult. It became clear to continue to the west side of Craig of Prony would be unpleasant and as we were just at the start of the track to the east, hopefully more sheltered side, a descent here was a sensible course of action. Meanwhile, two of our number had found the ascent of the Craig of Prony irresistible returning to join us later. In places the track was steep with loose, freshly quarried rock making the going difficult but as soon as conditions allowed lunch was taken in a sheltered spot.

One of the attractions of this walk and others in the area are the outstanding views of the surrounding countryside; they are the best compensation for the steep hill out of the valley to the undulating hillside at 500m or so and although the summit of Lochnagar was in the cloud the streaks of snow reminded us of winter just past. Looking round Morven was greening up in contrast to the heathery landscape close by and the flat fields west of Ballater were lush with grass.

Our way continued down through birch and a healthy stand of juniper, coming out of the trees to fields now well populated with sheep but in the past this fertile glen must have been well peopled if the foundations of long ruined houses and the terracing of the land are anything to go by. The first house we pass by at Abergairn is a fine Victorian villa that may have replaced an earlier, simpler farmhouse. Further down, the houses get grander culminating in the pile that is now the Craigendarroch holiday complex hidden in the trees. The trees hiding from visitors the magnificent view of the Dee valley the original house, built in 1891 with sandstone brought from quarries in the Pentland Hills, was sited to enable the Keillers to enjoy.

Now down on the A93 we make our way to the start of the old railway track, the gardens at the Bridge of Gairn colourful in the sunshine and down among the oaks to the river the path takes us to the edge of Ballater golf course. The tranquillity of the wood was a complete contrast to the windy moor. Hereabouts signs of the devastation caused in 2015 by Storm Frank is still evident as is the work that’s been done to repair the tattered terrain. Further on in Ballater in the prim caravan site, also a victim of the storm the white plastic prospect brightly reflects the afternoon sunshine.

The quiet outskirts of Ballater as we made our way back to the the car park were deceptive. As we turned into Bridge Street it was like gate crashing a party, a Duck Race Day party but no tails and toppers here just lashing of ice cream, a pipe band and plenty of gazeboed stalls to browse. Everybody seemed to be having a good time and we regrouped in the car park to say our goodbyes and headed for home.

My annual trip to the seaside – as always involving an A-B car shuffle exercise more demanding than any GCHQ test. But it’s worth it: especially for this particular section, which does not permit an interesting but different return route. It starts low and gradually climbs higher and higher cliffs, before (after a certain amount of teetering on steep grass) it drops to the beach before Aberdour Bay, featuring stunningly enormous red sandstone arches and tunnels and caves. But thereafter all calms down to a stroll through green grassy farmland, among plentiful cattle and sheep, charming and restful.

My thanks, more heartfelt than usual, go to the drivers Geoff, Nick, Moira, Angela and Andy, all of whom thought my brilliant description of car movements absolutely meaningless (substitute any other suitable word that springs to mind…). And my outstanding thanks to Angela who was kind enough to return Andy and me to our car at the start of the walk. All 15 of us had a great day out by the unusually calm and quiet Moray Firth, ending with fantastic cream scones at the Coastal Cuppie in Pennan – well worth a visit!

PS We also saw lots of birds and wild flowers, but I’ve run out of room – contact me for flowers and Robert M for birds!

After last years very successful weekend to the Lake District last year, it was decided to hold a further weekend in the Lakes, this time at the HF Holidays hotel just outside Keswick.

15 of us decided to go and we all met up on Friday night at the hotel bar and started to discuss which of the many walking options we would tackle over the next 3 days. The weather forecast was mixed with predicted sleety showers and accompanying wind. However, in reality with one notable exception on Sunday morning, the showers were short and infrequent, the visibility was good and the wind moderate. This allowed the walking members of the group to all manage 2 substantial days and for some an additional walk before heading back on the Monday.

The HF Hotel provided a great base both in terms of location and facilities. In fact, some of us walked straight from the hotel and the rest had only a short journey to a car park. Keswick and Derwentwater was also a good location for the non walking members of our group with lots to do in the immediate area. The food at the hotel was both good, varied and plentiful and the packed lunches are in my view the best going with a large choice and amount.

Graham Metcalf our former Chair was coincidently in Keswick for a holiday and some of us met up with him on Saturday to walk the Coledale Round.

On Sunday evening, we had the added excitement of the hotel’s photo competition where guests submitted photos from their stay and guests voted for the photo they thought the best. Ian Booth had submitted some brilliant photos and his photo of local boats on Derwent Water with a stunning sunset behind won the competition. And the prize ---- 2 biro pens!

The routes walked are listed below. They included two groups walking the Coledale Round the opposite ways and meeting midway at the top of Sail. We managed the same coincidental coordination on Sunday on the Newlands Round with both groups meeting on High Spy.

Routes tackled included:

Coledale Round from Braithwaite (clockwise and anticlockwise) including Causey Pike (637m), Scar Crags (673m), Sail (773m) and Crag Hill (839m), Grisedale Pike (791m). Anticlockwise group included Hopedale Head and Whiteside

Helvellyn and Fairmont

Knott Rigg

Cat Bells Ridge from hotel returning via Cumbria Way along Derwent Water (west bank). Climbed Cat Bells (451m), Maiden Moor (630m) and High Spy (653m). Descended E from col below High Spy via Nitting Haws to Cumbria Way and back to the hotel.

Newlands Round: Robinson, Hindscarth, Dale Head, High Spy, Maiden Moor, Catbells from Little Town and from the hotel minus Robinson

Ullock Pike(690m) and Carl Side( 746m)from Mirehouse, Bassenwaite

Bannerdale Crags

Catbells from the hotel

Scafell from the hotel

Ben Each (from Loch Lubnaig)

Lochcraig Head and White Coomb (from Gray Mare’s Tail near Moffat)

A longish circular route from Keiloch, the walk began with the superb track that meanders across Craig Leek’s southern face – beautifully soft underfoot, it rambles gently thru pine woods before visiting the Fog House and the new cairn to the previous laird on Invercauld.

We will draw a veil over the route north towards Culardoch and our hill – it does offer good views down the quiet glen to Auchtavan, but really, the surface is better suited to bikes than boots. A neat if intermittent path took us up west to Cairn 1 – not marked on the map (confusingly) it is a mere 857m atop a ring contour. Off we went to Cairn 2, smaller and less prominent but nicely placed on a genuine rocky outcrop, with views of 2 neat little lochans nearby.

Now we headed north to Cairn 3 - you really had to know it existed - which is the top of Carn Liath, demoted but still giving us views of the River Gairn far below. A brief lunch stop gave us energy for Cairn 4 – the newly named Corbett Creag an Dail Bheag. Not much effort put into this cairn either, more stone needed! From here we surveyed our other cairns, all of which looked considerably higher than where we stood….

And, for me, the highlight of the walk is the descent down the south ridge of CDB, short heather, brilliant views of Ben Avon’s backside, lovely bumps to climb, and a very large herd of deer to observe. And, thanks to some good chat, the return to the carpark was almost bearable. Oh I forgot the dotterel – the wildlife highlight of the walk!

After the drive south in the unexpected sunshine, our 4 drivers managed to find the hidden away Ski Trails car park in Glen Isla, the southern most and least frequented of the Angus Glens. Our usual hard to spot leader had stayed at home, getting over a chest infection, but new saunterer Chris stepped up to the mark, having done the walk three times before, in the opposite direction. Leaving Susie, whose experience during the recce had made her wonder if she’d manage to complete the whole 14 km 287 m ascent circuit, free to be the back marker.

We headed off northwards along the well surfaced track, turning off for the dammed up Loch Shandra (fishing by permit) along the dam to join the Cataran Trail and head northwards. Admiring the newly constructed fishing platform, and noticing the pair of swans on the loch, as well as the large herd of cattle in the area we’d be passing through on the way back. Hmmm? A coffee stop, still in the sun, where the Trail headed uphill on a grassy path. Onwards and upward, through the woods on the east side of Auchintaple Loch, then leaving the Trail and turning west, down to and across the dam at the southern end of the loch. At this point Susie had decided that she could manage the whole circuit. We noticed the boat on the loch and its fishing occupants, as well as the fishing bothy on the west side. A promising lunch stop, but that would depend on the hospitality of the fishing fraternity. We need not have been worried. By the time the slower saunters had caught up with the advanced party, it had been shown the photograph of the very large rainbow trout the group had just caught (and thrown back) which might made the fraternity delighted to share its bothy with us. We ensconced ourselves on the splendid bench and the humbler rustic seat outside. Another new fishing platform and what looked like a restoration of the bothy indicated the Glen Isla estate has spent money to encourage fishing. During lunch we met Harry, a beautiful dark golden labrador, with a cursory curiosity on what we were eating and much more in what his owner was offering him. We were told Harry was only 16 months old, was a cross between a labrador and goat and was the ideal fishing companion. He did not rock the boat and did not tread on the fishing lines. A beautiful dog. We postponed leaving this tranquil spot, where there was a large bird (eagle?) appearing and disappearing over the trees opposite, until time suggested we should leave.

Back on the path, and slightly uphill to reach the high ground, where the pastoral vista of Glen Isla, against the backdrop of wilder land to the north and west, Including Glas Tulaichean with its patches of snow. Downhill again to rejoin the Cateran Trail as it headed northwest and then southeast, leaving it again when it headed south, to continue south east, pausing briefly to sample the comforts of a bench hewed into a large log, offering fine views of Loch Auchintaple. By now rain was threatening so we didn’t stay there long but continued upwards along a path through the heather to the high point at 455m. Then southerly along fairly level ground which gave us views to more hills to the east - the Glen Clova hills, also with a little snow? By now the rain was threatening to fall, so some of donned waterproofs, if we weren’t wearing them already. Luckily the rain never came to much. As we lost height, a clump of trees came into view where we gathered as navigation of the way ahead would be a little trickier. The path on the map had disappeared at the abandoned farm of Craighead, and although a small one back to our intermediate destination, the Cateran Trail where we’d left it in the morning, was on the map, there was a small problem. The herd of cattle we’d noticed in the morning was in the way, or close to the way. As there were 12 of us and there might be calves in the herd, we decided to avoid it by walking across the grass, to the west of our preferred route. After navigating a fence, low for some of us, but not for those with shorter legs, which necessitated borrowing a stone from the nearby dyke to ease the climb over for us, and tacking round that was a bit on the hummocky and wet side, it was downhill all the way. Past a patch of tiny primroses and a larger one of anemones, a quick stop for afternoon tea and back onto the Cateran Trail. As we retraced our morning route, noticing that the swans had a nest away from the sheep in the field were turning eggs over with their wings (thanks to Moira’s binoculars) and spotted a heron flying lazily over the Loch. About half an hour later we were back at the cars, just as the rain began to fall properly. 5.5 hours after we’d left.

A new hill! OK, The Scalp, lying about 5km southeast of Dufftown, will never win any height records, I think it qualifies as a Tump (only 30m prominence!). Few walkers bother it, and now it is watching the groundworks of 7 x 200m high turbines being built. Just like most of our NE Scotland hills, it is a round brown heathery lump.

However, we enjoyed a great day out, admiring the concrete markers that divided Edinglassie from the Crown estate on Tips of Corsemaul, the duckpond home only to various seagulls, the bothy with both seating and table, the lovely cool soft green moss of the forest ride, the all-white mountain hare in the sheep field, the roe deer high up the tree-lined hill, the charm of the quiet River Deveron, the views of Corryhabbie, the Buck, Ben Rinnes and the amazingly extensive Dorenell windfarm.

This was a surprisingly varied route past expensively done-up cottages, farmland, grassy moor, heathery moor and forest. And all under 500m! Especial admiration to my fellow walkers who coped nobly with the rough ground, of which there was a fair extent, and who were such fun to chat with as we travelled through this remote-feeling landscape.

Our first bus walk of the year, and a great route for it – the best part of the Speyside Way, its Tomintoul Spur (and, so we were told, the original route of the Way). Our start was at Tommore, by the River Avon and 4km from the genuine Spey. This immediately leads up into quiet heathery hills, overlooked by the iconic Ben Rinnes. A landscape empty of dwellings, it was just us and the wind. And that was some wind…doing its best to bowl us over, and then adding rain too…luckily Sue had organised a perfect stop for 1st lunch – Glenlivet Hall with enough benches on a sheltered veranda to seat nearly the whole 17 of us.

The next leg took us up past the famous distillery (no time for the tour) and on to the next moor, more wind, and then snow – now we’re really hillwalking! The made path makes this stage very easy, and the snow went away for a while and we could finally see white hills gleaming in the distance. 2nd lunch in the shelter of the pines (shelter became very important on this walk), then the final ascent of the headline hill, Carn Daimh (569m) with its indicator. The descent to Tomintoul usually gives excellent views of the Cairngorms, well, we did spot Ben Avon and Beinn a Bhuird, but then came the next “shower” (so-called by the Met Office, but we did wonder when it would ever end); visibility vanished yet again and cheeks stung in the icy wind and yet more snow.

However, end it did, and we finished the route on a lovely quiet path by the Conglass Water, watching the lapwings circle and call, and finally into the Square where the bus, and the Saunterers, patiently waited. A surprisingly good day out, the weather raising the already interestingly varied route to new heights. Huge thanks go to Sue for her thorough prep work and for wrangling this large fast party, and our thanks also to John who wrangled the bus, its pickups and our various attempts to pay. Great work!

We left the Long walkers by the roadside at Mill of Tommore already bracing themselves against the stiff breeze and wished them well, the bus carrying us down Strath Avon to the sheltered start of our Saunter to Tomintoul. Our route was to take us down Strath Avon, over to Glenconglas to pick up the Speyside Way and on to Tomintoul, a mix of birch wood, forestry and open farmland on the way to keep us interested.

We were in the Glenlivet estate where a very generous provision is made for walkers as the start of the path was signposted with our first destination and the distance, a brand new latched gate swung open on freshly greased hinges, the woodwork supporting the handrail keeping us safe on the terraced path still smelt of the sawmill. Down by the riverbank is a substantial footbridge, with towers of galvanised girders awaited our passage. It seemed to have a life of its own as it swayed gently under our footfall. More new gates opened and closed to give access to grassy fields dressed with some inoffensive manure while sheep stood their ground watching for a while as sheep do. They were soon out of sight and as we approached the cottages at Lyne our eyes were drawn to the distinctive wedge that is Ben Rinnes sitting on the northern horizon. Here there are two holiday cottages set either side of quite a deep valley with a burn gushing down; a more tranquil, attractive dell would be hard to imagine. Our path followed the River Avon upstream as it made its way to join the mighty Spey at Ballindaloch, the rushing water was always in the corner of the eye and in the ears but not noisy enough to cancel out the bird song that was noticeable as soon as we left the bus. We soon arrived at the car park remembered as the starting point for a Monday walk over the Cromdale Hills in Sept 2022 where, this time an early lunch was enjoyed.

We crossed the River Avon again on a bridge that was just as functional as the previous one but with a lot less character and on the east side of Strath Avon made our way past the buildings at Ballenlish. Here the wind increased in strength and we were glad of the birch trees enclosing the track as we walked uphill. Too soon the trees were left behind but luckily the path turned sharply and the wind was mostly on our back on the open hillside. Underfoot we not so lucky as the path was deep in mud churned up as only cattle can and over the brow of the slight hill Belted Galloway stood surveying their wet, earthy domain. Not wanting to slither into the morass we kept our attention on a narrow firmer strip that carried us eventually onto drier ground where the track met the pine forest. Deep in the forest cyclists test their skills on berms, camel bumps and drop offs as this is Bike Glenlivet complete with cafe, shop and bike hire all laid out with trails for the cyclists mostly quite separate from walkers.

A passing cyclist may have been seen in the wood but our attention was drawn to a large black dog lolloping along towards us with no owner present to restrain its youthful enthusiasm in running around. Concern was raised that he (Dorothy assured us it was so) was a lost dog and that the owner might be worried; the owner whose phone number was on the collar was contacted and eventually replied. Jo and Dave went back to ensure a safe return. And so it was with peace of mind all round.

We’d been making our way downhill for some time and we passed into the pastures of Glenconglass where work was going on with fields to be manured, ploughed and some hopefully left alone to enable the lapwings who really fancied one another if their displays were anything to go by, to nest successfully amongst the stalks of last year’s harvest. The road down to join the Speyside Way was a long 2 km and the remainder of lunches were taken, the quiet relaxation enabled us to watch deer elegantly make their way across the Glenconglass Water in the valley below. Shortly we made our way across the same stream in our own elegant way only we had the advantage of a stout bridge and it was a straight forward, steady walk to finish the Saunter in Tomintoul. Here we prepared ourselves for a longish wait for the Long walkers in the Glenavon Hotel where Graham, the proprietor had lit the fire for us and served teas. Inside conversation flowed, dominoes clacked, players chapped while outside wind driven snow filled our field of vision and it crossed our minds that the walkers were still not yet safely back. Soon the snow relented and the walkers returned, wet but in good spirits and glad to have the bus rolling home.

Six of us turned up at Transition Extreme for another go at their climbing walls. This, as usual, was organised as a party, so we had our one instructor who swiftly lined us up for walls one and two. No hanging around – we were straight up, duly grateful that they weren’t too high or scarily overhanging. A little practice on how to descend gracefully was all we needed!

Only one first-timer among us, and he caught on very quickly, well done Phil. Our kind instructor allowed us to choose whether to go on to bigger higher things, or, even worse, bouldering – no safety rope - and (I regret to say) we all declined and had fun improving our performances where we were. The time passed so quickly, and it was hard to say goodbye. Thank you, everyone who attended – this was our third year there, and it is still great fun.

Strathdon is not everyone’s favourite waking area, but occasionally it surprises. This quiet route from Culfork delivered a beautiful wander thru pines and larches on soft tracks, a great shelter from gusty winds at a tree-sheltered mast, almost unrecognisable views of those rolling heathery hills southward, splashed with late season snow, and a final striding descent thru easy heather into old quiet plantation. An unusually large turnout of 16 foregathered at the Alford Bistro (great coffee but, as usual, no scones for those who turn up so late in the day). (The Coffee Toffee traybake exceptional though). Thank you to drivers Nick, Jeb and Chris, and hope the first timers enjoyed the walk, hope to see you again!

1st March, 2026, the date for Culter’s Sunday walk, but also the first day of Spring, as defined by the UK Met office, where each season last three months (March, April & May being Spring). This “Spring” walk was out of Tarfside, Glen Esk with a route taking in various hills to the south and west of the better known Mount Battock, and passing by the diminutive stretch of water, Loch Tennet, the smallest named loch in Scotland, anything smaller would possibly classify as a puddle.

The “Spring” weather forecast was not favourable, and all nine walkers departed the car park donned in full waterproofs, hat and gloves, as the precipitation oscillated between light to moderate rain. The northbound farm track took us through sheep pastures, one being very full of sheep, briefly along a pretty, tree lined burn uphill to the house Glentennet suitably named after the glen in which it stands. The moisture laden south-westerly airflow was being forced to ascend the higher hills ahead of us and consequently forming a solid cloud layer over our destination summits, the first being Hill of Cairney at a mere 372m. By this stage it was realised that there is a maze of vehicle tracks across these hills supporting the estate grouse shooting, but the walk coordinator knew every twist, turn, junction, alternative route, and should the weather worsen, escape route. Navigation was only necessary as a double check.

Gradients had been quite gentle, but it was more of a pull up towards the Hill of Cammie at 618m. Arrival at a large, cubic rock that had been painted white with black dots to expertly resemble a dice, was a good reason to stop and ponder. According to our coordinator, the rock had in the past had the wrong combination of numbers on opposing sides, but this had recently been corrected so all pairs of opposing sides totalled seven dots. The side with three dots was face down, well embedded in the turf.

Hill of Cammie was a bit damp in the cloud with a nippy wind and some light rain so little time was taken at the top, more a descent was made on the more sheltered north-east flank and a stop made in a borrow-pit (from which track material has been taken) which offered an extra level of shelter, as well as an unsightly rusting oil drum. On departing after our lunch, the rain briefly came on harder as we descended, actually walking the watershed (and the old parish boundary), between the North Esk and the Dee, soon arriving at the frozen Loch Tennet. Apart from the afore mentioned notoriety the outflow of the lochan, according to the map, is not southward, logically into the Burn of Tennet and subsequently the river North Esk, but northwards into the Water of Avon and ultimately the River Dee. Such is the nature of the lochan, perched on a flat ill-drained bealach, it was theorised that minimal kicking action with a walking boot could easily rectify this idiosyncrasy!

But conditions were not conducive to lingering, and it was heads down into the wind and light rain up more track on the north-western flank of Mount Battock. The recent snow had accumulated extensively in this leeward slope and after a while our gritty vehicle track disappeared fully under an extensive area of snow, it forward limit invisible in the cloud. After considerable debate, a brief reconnaissance to assess the snow conditions, and the resources in terms of grippers for our feet, three walkers turned back and six forged on ahead, including the terrain-knowledgeable co-ordinator. The snow-covered slope soon levelled off on Wester Cairn 717m, so named as being less than one kilometre west of the more significant Mount Battock 778m, a summit that would be on optional side trip on most days, but not in the prevailing conditions of snow-covered slopes and a chilly, cloud ridden wind.

Onward was easy going downhill on yet more grouse vehicle track often covered with drifted snow, till we reached the next hill, Bennygray at 558m and onto Mount Een, 529m. Even though we were descending steadily the cloud and associated drizzly rain was more extensive than our morning ascent, and not in accord with the weather forecast for the day, so although warm and dryish on the inside, outwardly the two words “rats” and “drowned” came to mind. We dropped down to the Bronze Age? Mile Cairn without really noticing it and from there walked the one mile west back to the cars at Tarfside where we reunited with our colleagues. There was ample time to drive into Edzell and enjoy refreshments at the welcoming Sinclair’s Larder.

At just over 20km, with 760m of ascent, and a brief taste of winter ground conditions, this was an excellent walk for the time of year, despite the lack of views and wildlife (apart from numerous grouse along the way).. Many thanks to the walk coordinator, and drivers.

St David’s day morning was overcast with a threat of rain but while other forecasters were predicting a day of rain the Norwegians got it right again with only a short shower to interrupt our Saunter. Getting to the carpark was a slight challenge for some with the closure of the Aboyne Bridge as was pressing the right buttons in the right order to pay for the ticket on arrival.

Once we’d paid our dues we gathered on the visitor centre (Braeloine Cottage) side of the bridge taking some time to assemble as there was 23 of us but there’s plenty to see outside the old farmhouse with its cherry stone pointing highlighting the solidity of the stonework and the curiously tall chimney stack perhaps built to ensure a good draw in the fireplace. The highlight of this corner of the estate is the old bridge we’d just crossed. By the looks of it it’s very similar to Gairnsheil Bridge or the old Dee bridge at Invercauld both dating to 1750 or thereabouts with its high arch structurally necessary to carry the load of masonry needed to bridge the width of the river. While the other bridges were built by the military there’s no evidence that this one was, it’s there to carry the Firmounth Road, it just goes to show how important the Firmount was for communications at the time.

We make a start after trying to ensure that we all keep together or within sight of each other and that we stop and regroup at junctions just in case we need to turn one way or the other or possibly go straight on. The route is easy going by grassy fields and we pass St Lesmo’s Chapel built by William Cunliffe Brooks who was in business as a banker, a barrister and an MP in 1871. He at first leased the estate from the Marquess of Huntly and in 1890 bought the place. If you say, with respect, of course, that you’ve never heard of St Lesmo you are not alone as there’s little evidence that he ever existed although at one time up to sixteen saints are recorded as being active during a period from c. 500 AD to c. 800 AD in Strathdee. In the Chapel there’s a stained window with a representation of St Lesmo whose face is considered to be the image of William Cunliffe Brooks!

Enough history. Up into the Glen Tanar hillside we go here mostly covered in Scots Pine or Larch trees but it’s not a blanket coverage as there are areas where trees have been felled and a substantial area that was burnt many years ago and gives the appearance of having been allowed to regenerate naturally. Through these gaps we can see the hills around, the higher ones hidden the cloud and in places patchy snow was defying the mild air.

It was getting noticeably windier after our stop for coffee and a few spots of rain encouraged some to don waterproofs as insurance against a prolonged downpour as we turn up the southern slope of Baudy Meg. Why is it so called? WWW or AI is no real help: it seems to be something that is lost in the mist. Not many hills have a women’s name but there are plenty with a man’s name – Ben!! More seriously a suitable place for lunch needed to be decided upon, somewhere sheltered as there was now a snell wind blowing but a steep pull up the shoulder of Baudy Meg was better negotiated before rather than after eating. And so we stopped and lunched just before the crest of the hill.

No postprandial rest as the chill was settling in so we needed to get going again and as we finished the ascent the sky brightened and the northern horizon became clear with only Morven hanging onto the cloud. The gentle descent took us back into the trees past a stand of birch trees that had the look of a plantation rather than natural regeneration as they all showed the same maturity, older than saplings but without the gnarled bark of older specimens. The silver bark gleamed as the sun attempted to break through. Further down an area of the forest had been felled and by the verges of the track the gorse had been levelled, pulverised even, perhaps to the give timber trucks and other machinery a clear view of the road.

To bring us back to our starting point we were to follow a footpath beside the Water of Tanar but there was a wooded bank and some off track ground to negotiate before we gained the said path. The Saunterers seemed to relish this slight challenge topping the bank and easily finding a way through the mossy stones of a collapsed dyke then following the path showing signs of fresh maintenance above the stream while on lower ground the detritus of recent floods was scattered about.

We gathered while some visited the Visitor Centre using the bridge parapet as a rest and took time to appreciate the bridge's fine lines, slender, with curves in all the right places, what’s not to like!

After Aberdeen made BBC news with its record of no sun for 18 days, and with the MO forecasting rain all day, our hopes were not high, and there’d even been a recce for snow, ice and potholes for the drivers. Only the potholes were problematic (Kinker won top placing for its mega holes placed so impossible to avoid).

And guess what, it hardly rained. We had a wonderful time on Craig Leek working our way thru the incredibly wet snow, and especial fun on the steep slope, where the rock step challenge is usually found. Offpath, Meall Gorm was tackled with easy competence, followed by a superb wander over its tops among all its young pines and with great views across to Auchtavan and Culardoch, head in cloud.

All ten of us displayed great patience in picking our way down among heather, pines, birch and bracken to rejoin our outward route, finishing in long-forgotten sunshine – a great day out.

This very soggy walk started from the Pitfichie Forest car park and progressed along a good, but very wet track to the Whitehills stone circle. The stone circle is around 4,000 years’ old and is of the recumbent type particularly common in this region. There is a large granite block on its side which would have been flanked by two upright stones although only one remains. After looking at the stones and a photo opportunity the group carried on with the wood on our left and took a track up Green Hill. Walking through the wood up the first slope there was reasonable protection from the wind and rain. Coming out onto the hillside, we lost that protection and made it up to the windswept, wet top of Green Hill. After a very short stop with not much of a view, a group photo was taken with walkers trying to muster a smile and some determination to keep on going. The one good thing about this rain period of biblical proportions – no mountain bikes to avoid / be aware of, or be run over by! There is always a silver lining to almost everything. The track then descends into a wooded area where it was decided to have the morning coffee break but with no dry areas to sit down we had to make the best of it. We then ascended Cairn William trapsing up a track that had turned into a mini stream, but fortunately not a torrent! The top of Cairn William did not seem so windy but was just as wet as we stood at the trig point looking for the illusive views. The route then winds down a good zig zag track to the main track where lunch was taken. Then as if by magic the rain eased and stopped, hooray – deep joy! The group enjoyed the rest of the afternoon along the forest track having views and the novelty these days of some blue sky. In the end an enjoyable walk and back at the cars ever so slightly drier. The main theme of the day – the weather!

The Saunter was going to be a walk to the summit of Cnoc Dubh and a circuit of Loch Kinord but this was changed to Cambus o’ May late in the day in case the path by the Loch was under water. Weather forecasts were closely and regularly consulted just to be sure that Sunday was going to be slightly better than what had gone before and with the Norwegians at yr.com giving an optimistic outlook off we went. Driving out in the lashing rain with the road awash I felt I should have consulted the Shipping Forecast I was after, all navigating round floods and seemingly bottomless potholes as if they were rocks in the sea!

My passengers peered out through the wet veil looking around for the life belts but as we travelled west the sky brightened a little and by the time we reached the car park we had emerged from the lengthy cloud burst to find the others ready to go. That’s ready to go on the Saunter as everybody was enthusiastic, cheered by the thinning of the cloud and a brightness we hadn’t seen for days.

Apart from puddles in the car park the path was dry and progress was easy up into the trees but the main track to the quarries was running water, of no great concern to us as we were to leave the sodden track very soon, just as soon as I could find the start of the little used footpath but a little heather bashing later a line though the moss was discerned and we progressed. Not long after we diverted onto an even more vestigial path to seek out an unusual building that we hadn’t visited before on previous Saunters in the area. Standing just above the path is a small rectangular granite building with a curved concrete roof, its front door sheathed in rusty steel bearing two padlocks neither of which was locking the door. Opening the door revealed a wooden lining still in good condition. This had been a very important building for the quarry operations as this was where the explosives had been stored, the magazine, far enough away from the work to ensure safety if a catastrophe occurred.

Back on the main path before it turns at the first of a number of hairpin bends we stop on a terrace made from quarry waste and appreciate our surroundings, scrubby plants at our feet just surviving in the mix of hard packed granite rubble and dust but elsewhere Scots Pine and Birch trees have naturally colonised the landscape, completely softening the industrial impact that must have been visible from miles around when the quarries were at their busiest. At this time of year the pines stand evergreen, the birches leafless but not bare as the twigs and branches are heavy with lichen. Water droplets also cling on to the tips of twigs reflecting what light there is. Hereabouts the location of the aforementioned bend is not where it should be, not as I remember but intuitive guesswork and a couple of determined strides reveals the way ahead and its up to the the next terrace bounded by a ridge of huge sharp edged stones. Here we’re above the trees, the high point of this part of the walk, below a man made scree long ago tipped from cart and barrow, a flat surface to stop and take in the view, east to see a tower of the Cambus o’ May suspension bridge, south to Pannanich Hill shrouded in trailing cloud gently moving west on the breeze to join the heavy greyness blocking our view to Lochnagar.

Now we contour along the terrace, a bit narrow in places and visit the quarries that are not immense holes in the ground but cliff faces that have been substantially cut away into the fabric of the hillside. What’s been left is an unnatural architecture of some high walls that appear impossibly smooth and perpendicular unweathered apart from tiny ledges and cracks that zig zag their way across the crag. Other aspects have enormous blocks and flakes that look ready to crash down at any time and join the ruin on the quarry floor. Close inspection reveals rock climbers’ bolts to ensure safety on the routes all of which look very challenging.

The quarries were in use from the 1880s to the 1930s supplying stone to Ballater and the surrounding area. Rail and road developments also used local stone.

Leaving the climbing for another day we make our way down to a terraced track that has the look of the bed for a railway line but even if there was never a rail the short but flat track here would have aided removal of the rock down to the road and Deeside line railway. It’s dry and grassy as we go into the trees and follow the winding path that takes us to the ford of the Culsten Burn. The burn was apparent long before we saw the rushing, noisy water racing down a deep and narrow channel. It’s almost as if the water has life with its restless, lusty urgency to surge down the hill, getting its business done as fast as possible. At the ford the water has taken a breather and spread out over the grass but still far too deep for us to go any further in this direction and we retrace our steps down the main quarry track also carrying a substatial stream and in due course we return to the car park, not to depart but to have lunch as there’s a convenient picnic table for some of us. A fine place, dry overhead, calm with a hint of blue sky and the hope of sunshine, who would have thought it likely? Possibly only those Norwegian weather forecasters.

After lunch we set off again on the second leg of the walk down to the Deeside railway line turning into a large field currently occupied by a flock of sheep. This area is dominated by a hill of 219 metres. Sounds a lot but as we were standing at an elevation of 200m it wasn’t doing much dominating but it is one of the most charming and delightful wee hills to enjoy yet hardly anybody goes there. It’s a grassy hillock of yellow sand studded with old birch trees sadly showing no signs of regeneration offering a definite ridge to ascend to the Farquharson Needle. This is an obelisk celebrating the life of William Farquharson of Monaltrie 1753-1828, who continued his uncle Francis Farquharson’s work establishing Ballater as a health spa. Francis, whose sentence to hanging, drawing and quartering post Culloden in 1746 was commuted to 20 years exile in England, had been able to buy back his forfeited estate in 1788 and returned there to improve agriculture in the area. When the monument was erected it could be seen from Ballater, now the hill has to be climbed to fully appreciate it. Today the fine view of Lochnagar was lost in the clouds. After an easy descent (nothing’s difficult on a Saunter!) we stopped at the Cambus o’ May Cheese and Milk Hoose Cafe for refreshment before a much drier drive home.

Two short walks for the price of one! What a bargain! Ideal for a brief winter’s day, we tackled both these two lowly eminences (tho both are Marilyns - hills with more than 150m prominence) (and note, a considerable no of Munros fail this test, including Cairngorm and Derry Cairngorm, Driesh and Mayar).

A cold and icy start up Fourman Hill, near Huntly, soon gave way to old but crisp snow to the summit with its tremendous views of the River Deveron winding its sinuous way below us to the sea. A 20min drive then took us to Hill of Tillymorgan, where a sunny start, again with vast views across the snowy land below, led snowily up past the modern wind turbines to wander among the old 19th c slate quarries on its summit. Best of all, Morgan Mcveigh’s was only a 2min drive away – no wonder there were 16 of us out for the walk!